By entering in the rue de Rennes Etam store in Paris, the client facing walls of bags in hand and rows of shoes. The lower floor, she reviews cabas and other awards enthroned among the clothing. Next, H & M develops similarly accessories range. A little further in Kookai, perched on a tree in metal jewelry occupy the front of Fund, for a last minute impulse. Bags and leather shoes are distributed at the point of sale.
Regardless of their style, ready-to-wear signs build more and more on the accessory. They see a mandatory to be anchored in fashion while encouraging additional purchases. "The movement was initiated by the luxury." The marks on the way to range followed, which gave the magnitude to some. Today, the phenomenon is widespread. "This goes hand in hand with the rise of the MEGA-Brands showing a lifestyle," says Pierre-Francois Le Louet, President and CEO of the Agency Nelly Rodi.
The evolution of the Intersélection show, which starts tomorrow for three days at Villepinte, also reflects these trends. Allowing specialty chains, Department stores, distance selling players or groups of retailers, the event now reserves a space apart accessories. Called "Essential" and equipped with a visual identity, it brings together 88 exhibitors, or 30 of the total. In 2005, they were only 50 on this niche. "More and more exhibitors specialized in ready-to-wear are now accessories lines." "And our visitors are seeking offers", finds Valérie Lemant, Director of the division mode of Eurovet, organizer of exhibitions, including Intersélection. An award was also created for accessories, while trends forum give them more by playing on the theme of food. At the next edition of the bi-annual show, there will be even an entry in part for this universe.
Now to the latest trends, seasonal products, the bags are universal entry points. "Long purchased for rational criteria such as the number of pockets, they are now one level in the world of fashion." "For the signs, they are fairly easy to manage, because there is no problem of sizes", stressed Evelyne Chaballier, Director of the economic and forward-looking studies at the French Institute of fashion. While shoe seeks more control logistics related to sizes. And that the costume jewellery is not always fashionable. "But he is back on the front of the stage, in connection with spirit couture reigning on new collections," she continues.
Etam accessories made a priority. "Among consumers, they generate blows of heart, but are also, for scarves or shoes, destination purchases come in stores," said Lilian Rosas, Director of purchases Etam ready-to-wear. In four years, the sign has tripled sales and supply. To extend the palette in some of its mégastores and in some points of sale via a column of jewellery, it has also implemented a partnership with MOA, specialist of the accessories, to the capital of which she took a participation.
Signed products Etam, them, determined on the basis of collections of clothing. "In 2008, we intend to go further in the proposals for quality, leather, and grow more dimension style, because it must display a personality to develop these markets", said Lilian Rosas. This season, an oversized leather bag set the tone on the first axis, and the success of the varnished shoes, the first in heel claw, illustrates the second.
On the Swatch Internet site, or bags, scarves, gloves, or seat belts fail to the models with the collections. The distribution is not in rest. In Carrefour, the new collection of highest ready-to-wear range Tex by Max Azria account a line extended accessories.
Foreign channels also contributes to the phenomenon. A sign of clothing such as New Look and performs some 20 of its sales in footwear. Constantly expand his territory, H & M has, for its part, concept-stores reserved for accessories. And the Swedish group has launched this year a range of footwear for women, coordinated clothing and available in 200 of its stores.
Accessories increase, not easy however monitor their progress. The footwear sector has indicators, currently green. But sales of bags, all circuits combined, are not recorded. For now, at least. Because given the taken huge, the MFI plans to put in place statistics professionals interested in their follow-up was being increased next year.
For the players, the pitfalls to avoid include the risk of blurring the image of the sign. Therefore, find the good offer. Another brake shoe: unable, often in the shops of ready-to-wear to sit down to try them. "On the segment of the bags is achieved a real level of saturation with the surge of the offer," also notifies Pierre-Francois Le Louet. It provides that jewelry and shoes will take the relay. But he warned against a possible backlash in case of too much development, have not always been trend accessories.
There is also the deployment of more and more actors. Specialized in accessories and leather goods products signs also seek to respond to the development of a new competition. Specialist footwear Bocage, scarves, belts and jewellery slide so the boots and shoes.