It trade fur since 1925. Bags and shoes since the 1960s. Was missing more than a perfume to mark a glamorous note back in fashion brands. It is thing made since Monday evening, where all-Rome celebrated with great pomp the launch of "palazzo", the first juice signed Fendi. It was here, in an Italian Palace, that began the history of this claw of fur, leather goods and accessories of luxury. Here the five daughters of the founder is are argued the reins in the 1990s to give 51 at LVMH and Prada in 1999. Here again that the luxury giant has become only master on board in 2001, anchoring the values of the brand. Entire vested to sign his mark the venerable House, perfume resumed in transparency on its bottle the façade of the Palazzo Boncompagni Ludovisi. "The beauty of the contrasts that emanates from Rome, this perpetual confrontation between old and modern, is the image of Fendi, that Italian Roman in its essence." "It is this touch of madness and boldness that we wish to develop and which is the basis of this House," said Michael Burke, President and CEO of Fendi since 2004.
In his palace in the via Condotti, the small elegant Roman has given beauty. Conceptualized in 2005 by architect Peter Marino the author of the Vuitton des Champs-Elysées store in Paris and marrie Fendi in New York instead store the ancient to the modern. The grand staircase walls and antique metallic anthracite grey, that of Roman stones, that also created in the 1960s, Fendi logo links the 700 m2 and leads up to the workshop of the fur trade, the historic heart of the claw, devoted to research. "The gathering of all the rows in the House in one place helped the coherence of the whole," said Silvia Venturini Fendi, the artistic director of leather goods, accessories and ready-to-wear man. Daughter of Anna, one of the five Fendi sisters, it remains the sole representative of the family involved on a daily basis in the case, with Carla, another one of his aunts, who still holds 4 of the capital.
The baguette bag
Silvia brand is today one of his bestsellers, is the bag baguette, small package securely elegantly in the shoulder, released in 1997. Knowing spike to modernity the Basic, Silvia skilfully marie contents. Thus the new collection bags loops are of fluo metallic on the monogram of the double letter F printed fabric. In their time, his grandparents, Adèle and Edoardo Fendi, had succeeded in the 1950s in désembourgeoiser the wearing of fur, by removing liners, reworking the skins with new assemblies, in the preparing of new colours. The map of fur, a bit cumbersome to collectives of animal protection, has given way to that of the accessory, more remunerative and malleable. Leather goods today represents 60 of its activity and fur and wear 30, the rest of the activity sharing between jewelry, neckties and other connected grigri.
Since this year, his owner ensures that she found the path to profitability... two-digit. The net sales of approximately EUR 350 million in 2006 to double in 2008. Objective: profitability by more than 20 in 2008, such as Dior. "It cannot be a global group in the luxury without an Italian claw strong," said Michael Burke. Better health due to a "stroke of luck, and the more traditional but nevertheless effective treatment", according to a financial analyst. The chance The popularity of classical forms and the basic 1980s in fashion, but also canvases monograms essentially Vuitton and Gucci is the return to grace. Side strategy, classic luxury ingredients have been applied, those that have been proven in Dior: reconstruction of branding, new products more anchored in fashion, opening of stores burst everywhere in the world (140 shops own today, against only four in 1999, and a dozen in preparation), internationalisation of the claw and launch of a perfume that will emerge in France this fall in the linear.
But most importantly, one of the mistresses of the Italian claw is the creativity of Karl Lagerfeld. Collaborator of Fendi since 1965 and Director art of couture, ready-to-wear and accessories since 1983 in Chanel, he has mastered the art of reinterpreting the codes of the old houses. LVMH has renewed his contract in 2005, giving it a new breath. He held to photograph and put on stage the advertising campaign for the launch of "Palazzo". "The essence of the success of a luxury brand is based on the good tandem between the manager and the creator." At Fendi, we have time to find the good couple. Once in place, progress by each time of tailor-made, whether collections, of course, but also the merchandising and communication. The personality of a luxury brand first takes its source in creativity. "Once you've found it, you can accelerate and invest," analyzes Michael Burke.
An "Italian Vuitton".
Fendi is exactly: in phase of re-engagement. Bernard Arnault, wants to, said, carry it to the rank of star mark and make it an "Italian Vuitton". It was after the failure of his raid on Gucci in 1999, won by his rival François Pinault, which he threw his vest on the Roman Furrier for a billion euros. "If LVMH puts as much emphasis on this brand, it is also to make a success of pole fashion and leather goods of the group, which the market alleged to have that Vuitton to display its top", said a financial analyst.
Michael Burke, the good modern luxury martingale is now find in of the "identifiable individual." Because the client appreciates to recognize a wise eye claw that she wears, but also seeks to stand by its choice. A range of products that knows how to offer him one thousand and one small detail to assert its difference just by belonging to a same world is therefore a sans-faute. "The restart of Fendi come out of it." It is the woman who chooses his bag in a mark. The first season of the Spy bag we got 50 versions. "When it is, the client has the feeling of being the only one to have this model", developed the CEO. The simplest version around 1,000 euros-the most sophisticated in alligator to more than 15,000 euros, the Spy has already sold more than 75,000 copies in two years. Only the fur are still a bastion of pure luxury in which accessibility out of the closet. Some models of the last two collections, including small jackets in mink, starting at 5,000 euros, when the rest of the creations on average more readily revolves around 12,000 euros to reach summits in 180.000 euros Sable mantle.
Laying his eyes back, Michael Burke acknowledged: "we had all the problems with Fendi: a family to migration, a culture rigid in habits and scattered by trades, a trade mark extinguished.". After our efforts on marketing and communication, it remains now to become more credible in production and logistics to double volumes. "It has just received the green light from the Chinese authorities for a spectacular parade on the wall of China in October. Karl Lagerfeld is already draw.